How to Build a Drift Car (Without Totally Destroying Your Bank Account)

By Ricky Skids – Skidded Media

So, you finally scored yourself a rear-wheel-drive, manual, front-engine sh*tbox, and you’re ready to throw it sideways—whether it’s at the local drift event or that totally secret industrial warehouse spot everyone swears they don’t know about.

But now you’re wondering:
What’s next?
How do you build a proper drift car without just… breaking it instantly?

Let’s walk through exactly what you need to get sideways—and how to strategically drain your bank account in the process. This is How to Build a Drift Car, Skidded Media style.

Step 1: Suspension – Coilovers First, Always

If your car’s still stock and unmolested by the 12 previous owners, your first mod should be coilovers.

Why?
Because coilovers give you control. They let you set spring rates, stiffen the ride to reduce body roll, and dial in damping to handle bumps better. Plus—you can drop the ride height for that sick tight fitment every drift car deserves.

Brands to Consider:

Budget: Megan, BC Racing
Mid/High-End: Fortune Auto, KW, Ohlins

Price Range: $800 – $5,000 depending on your car and setup.

Step 2: The Differential – LSD vs Welded Diff

If you’re still rocking an open diff, good luck holding a drift. You need both rear wheels spinning consistently.

Your Options:

Factory LSD (ok, but torque-sensing units like Torsen can unlock when you lift off the throttle)
Aftermarket 2-Way LSD (locks under accel and decel, but costs $1,000–$1,500)
Welded Diff (100% lock, dirt cheap, super reliable if welded properly—$100–$300 total)

Pro tip: If you already have a factory LSD and want more consistency, pick up a junkyard open diff and weld it.

Step 3: Bushings – Ditch the Rubber

Your 20+ year-old car’s rubber bushings are probably toast anyway. Even if they’re intact, they absorb power and make the car feel vague.

The Fix: Polyurethane or solid bushings for the subframe, diff, control arms, engine mounts, and transmission mounts.
Downside: Ride comfort? Gone. Your car will feel like a washing machine full of loose change.
Upside: Predictability and more direct power delivery.

Cost: $300 – $1,000 depending on the car.

Step 4: Alignment & Adjustable Arms

Lowering your car messes with camber, caster, and toe. For drifting, you’ll want:

Front Camber: -4° to -7° (better grip when countersteering)
Rear Camber: Near zero for even tire wear
Caster: +6° to +9° for strong self-steer
Toe: Slight front toe-out (-1°) for quicker steering response

You’ll likely need adjustable control arms to get these settings dialed in—especially if you’re going low.

Cost: $2,000 – $4,000 for a full setup.

Step 5: More Steering Angle

More angle = more room for error before spinning out.

Options:

Cut/re-weld factory knuckles + extended tie rods ($300–$400)
Full angle kit (control arms, knuckles, rack relocation, etc. – $2,000+)

Full kits are overkill for beginners but shine in competition.

Step 6: Interior Mods for Control

Being tossed around mid-drift ruins your driving. Start with:

Bucket Seat (locks you in place)
Aftermarket Steering Wheel (more precise input)

Then consider: harnesses, harness bar, cage/door bars, hydraulic handbrake, tall shifter.

Cost: $1,000 – $5,000 depending on how wild you go.

Step 7: Style – The Soul of Drifting

Drifting isn’t just about driving—it’s an art form. The look matters.

Think:

JDM wheels with proper fitment
Aero/body kit that complements your chassis
Quality paint/livery
Small details that tie it together

Style shows respect for drift culture. Even if you’re going to door-tap a wall, build it like you care.

Cost: $5,000 – $15,000 for wheels, bodywork, paint, and accessories.

Step 8: Engine & Powertrain (Optional… at First)

You can drift on stock power. But if you want more grunt:

Bolt-ons (cheap-ish, less risky)
Engine swap (expensive, time-consuming, requires supporting mods)
Forced induction (fun, but brings heat and reliability challenges)

Rule of thumb: Multiply the cost of the engine by four to estimate the real cost of a swap (mounts, driveshaft, ECU, wiring, cooling, etc.).

Cost: $5,000 – $50,000+ depending on build.

Reality Check: Cost & Time

Total Build Cost (Excluding Car):

Low end: ~$15,000
High end: $80,000+

Time Investment: The “10:1 Rule” applies—10 hours wrenching for every 1 hour driving. Factor in working extra hours at your job to afford it, and it might feel more like 80:1.

Final Thoughts

If you’re in it for the love of drifting, the cost and time won’t scare you. Passion finds a way. Start with the essentials, keep it reliable, and focus on seat time over horsepower numbers.

At Skidded Media, drifting isn’t just a hobby—it’s a culture, a style, and a way of life. Build your car right, drive it hard, and stay sick tight.