By Ricky Skids – Skidded Media

So you want to buy a used car. Maybe it’s that questionable Facebook Marketplace listing with blurry photos taken on a Motorola from 2008… or maybe it’s a used car dealer who looks like they stepped straight out of Grand Theft Auto IV. Either way, the mission is the same:

How do you make sure you’re buying a good car—and not a financial trap with wheels?

After years of fixing, modifying, flipping, and inspecting hundreds of cars (both personally and through my former dealership), I’ve learned exactly what to look for. Today, I’m breaking down the entire process so you can walk into any used-car situation with confidence.

Let’s make sure you get the right car and avoid the scams.


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Meet the Example Car: My ‘97 Miata STO

For this guide, I’m using my 1997 Mazda Miata STO—a car I recently picked up and have already done several fixes on. It needs paint, but it runs, drives, and is perfect as a demonstration model.

If you’re wondering how I know all this—well, years in the enthusiast world plus running a car dealership will do that. My business partner and I regularly attended dealer-only auctions with 400 to 2,500 cars available at a time. You learn very quickly how to spot problems—and how to spot the cars that’ll leave you stranded on the side of the freeway.

Not everything was sunshine and rainbows. We got screwed a few times too. And that’s exactly why I’m making this guide.


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Step 1: Walk Around the Car

This is where most major red flags show up. You’re looking for wrecks, bad repairs, rust, and anything that indicates the seller isn’t telling you the full story.

Check the Body Lines

Cars are symmetrical. Like a butterfly, both sides should mirror each other.

Look for:

Uneven gaps between fenders, hood, doors, or bumpers

Panels that sit too high or too low

Misaligned headlights or tail lights


Misaligned gaps = strong chance the car’s been in a wreck.

Check the Paint

My Miata still has its oxidized factory paint, but here’s how to spot a repaint:

1. Color mismatch

Metallics and pearls especially are almost impossible to match unless it was a high-quality job. Look at it in direct sunlight—never in the dark or when it’s raining.

2. Overspray

Paint where paint shouldn’t be:

Wheel wells

Weather seals

Rubber gaskets

Chrome trim

Even glass


If you see overspray, someone cut corners.

3. Door jambs, underhood, trunk

If the car used to be red and is now white… the jambs will snitch on the previous owner.

4. Orange peel

A wavy, bumpy clearcoat texture (like an orange skin). It’s common on cheap paint jobs.

Orange peel can be corrected with wetsanding and buffing—but cheap clearcoat will fade and fail quickly.


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Bonus: Small Clues About How the Car Was Treated

Tires:

Tires tell a story.

Good signs:

Matching brand tires

Name-brand (Michelin, BFG, Continental, etc.)

Even tread wear


Bad signs:

Four mismatched cheap tires

Uneven wear

Bald shoulders or cupping


I worked at Discount Tire—trust me, tires reveal who cared about their car and who didn’t.

Brakes:

Visible grooves or a ridge on the rotors = they ran the pads too long. Not expensive to fix, but it shows the owner neglected routine maintenance.

Suspension:

Bounce test

Push down hard on the bumper. If it bounces more than once, the shocks are worn out.

Side shove test

Push the car side-to-side. Listen for:

Clunks

Pops

Creaks


Could be worn bushings, ball joints, sway bar links, etc.


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Step 2: Look Underneath

Get low. Yes, even if you’re in nice clothes.

Check for:

Oil leaks

Coolant leaks

Transmission leaks

Power steering leaks

Rust (especially structural)

Scrapes on the subframe or oil pan


If it looks like someone used the underbody as a skateboard rail, that’s a bad sign.


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Step 3: Pop the Hood

Before opening the radiator cap, make sure the engine is cool. Touch it with the back of your hand—if it’s hot, don’t open it unless you enjoy second-degree burns.

Once it’s safe, check:

Oil

Pull the dipstick:

Low oil = neglect

Jet-black oil = late changes

Thick sludge under the oil cap = walk away


Coolant

Should be:

Clean

Green, pink, or orange depending on type


Brown sludge or “milkshake” coolant = possible blown head gasket.

Transmission Fluid (automatics)

Healthy: bright red/pink
Bad: dark brown, burnt smell

Other fluids

Check brake, clutch, and power steering fluids. Dirty but full is okay—burnt or contaminated is not.

Belts, Hoses & Wiring

You’re looking for:

Cracked hoses

Torn vacuum lines

Melted connectors

Dollar-store electrical tape “repairs”

A serpentine belt with cracks or chunks missing


If the car has a timing belt, verify when it was last replaced. On interference engines, a failed timing belt can destroy the engine.

Start the Engine

Listen for:

Knocking

Squealing

Ticking beyond normal injector noise

Rough idle


If you have an OBD2 scanner, use it. Check for:

Current codes

Pending codes

Freeze-frame data

Past/hidden codes


This can reveal problems the seller cleared right before you showed up.


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Step 4: Inspect the Interior

Test everything:

A/C

Heat

Windows

Locks

Mirrors

Radio

Horn

Wipers

All lights


A/C Test

Compressor should click on

Cold air should come out


If it’s slightly cool: likely low refrigerant
If it’s not cool at all and there’s no compressor click: bad compressor or clutch

Heat Test

No heat = clogged heater core (expensive) or climate control issues.


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Step 5: The Test Drive

Turn the radio off—no distractions. You want to hear everything.

Engine

Smooth acceleration. No hesitation. No misfires.

Transmission

Manual: no grinding, smooth engagement

Automatic: no harsh shifts

CVT: no lag or shuddering (especially on Nissans…)


Steering & Alignment

On a flat road, lightly loosen your grip:

If the car drifts hard to one side → alignment, tire pressure, or suspension issue


Braking

Brake hard (safely):

If it pulls left/right → brake or alignment issues


Highway Test

Get up to 65–75 mph. Watch for:

Vibrations

Steering wander

Overheating

Transmission slipping


This is where hidden issues reveal themselves.


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Final Thoughts: Did You Find a Good Car?

If the car passes everything above, you’ve likely found a solid vehicle. These are the exact steps I’ve used for years—at auctions, dealerships, and private sales.

A few last tips:

Always check the Carfax if available

If possible, get a pre-purchase inspection from a trusted shop

Expect some imperfections—no used car is perfect


Even with all this, there’s always a chance of getting a lemon. But if you follow this guide, you’ll avoid 95% of the traps people fall into—and save yourself thousands in the long run.

Thanks for reading. If you found this helpful, share it, save it, and follow Skidded Media for more enthusiast-driven automotive content.

Stay sick tight.
— Ricky Skids